Perfect Easy Tube Bead
When I began lampworking I wanted to do everything, of course! So, I set about perfecting the round bead first and when I got that down I felt it was time for everything else! I got the bicone down and worked on color combos that were attractive and felt I was making progress. But when I got to the tube bead frustration set in because I never could keep both ends warm at the same time and the little foot at the opposite end of the mandrel always cracked because it got too cool. Needless to say I didn't make many tube beads but I watched other's that they made and drooled. Every tutorial I read said to make two perfect footprints at opposite ends of the mandrel to start and then fill in the middle. This last year I was working at the torch and it was like a lightbulb went off in my head - why make a foot at both ends first and have to keep moving the mandrel back and forth to keep the other end warm ? Why not make one foot first and work from there and finish the other end last? That way you have more heat retention at the end where you are working and not a lone end three or four inches away from the flame. For the first time I have been able to make super even circumference tube beads and I LOVE it! The only tool you need is a marver. I love my torch marver because it's so close to the flame.
So this is what I came up with:
Make your first foot on the mandrel the size that you want your tube bead to end up being in circumference. If your first foot is too small add to it and melt it in to make your perfect foot. Let it cool until there is no glow. This part should never be molten again. Then lay down your second wrap trying to have it the same size as your first - better too big than too small, though. Melt a tiny bit of the side of your first foot together with the second application of glass to get rid of the line between wraps of glass. If the first foot gets too hot let it cool a few seconds before then next step. While the second wrap of glass is still hot roll it on your marver using the cooled first foot as your guide to control the size of the molten glass. Lay your third wrap and do the same being sure to have all wraps rolled on the marver using the first few wraps as your guide. After each new wrap of glass has been rolled on the marver move back to the beginning wrap and reheat a bit to add some insurance heat but not to molten. You don't want the first wrap to ever get molten again. Continue until your bead is two wraps from the length you want it to be. Now lay the last foot about 4mm away from the end of the bead so there is a space between the last foot and the bead. Try to make it as perfect in shape and size as the first one. Using the same rod of glass for the whole bead naturally helps with making the last wrap the same size as the first. Let it cool til it's not molten while you go back to the beginning part of the bead to warm it again. Move back to the end of the bead and fill in the part between the bead and the last foot. Be sure not to use too much glass here. You want to add just enough to fill in the spot between the bead and the end. Roll it on your marver to shape and you're done! Move back to the beginning and warm the beginning of the bead again. Now you can decorate as you like being sure to always move your bead back and forth in the flame to keep both ends of the bead warm as you work.
Here are examples of tube beads I have made using this technique.
3&1/2 inches
3&1/2 inches
3 inches
4 inches
3 inches
2&1/2 inches
2&1/2 inches
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